Dan
Full Member
Amerateur Mechanic Trainee
Posts: 211
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Post by Dan on Sept 12, 2005 17:39:47 GMT -5
how would you cut out the gasket.
and where do you put it. i wana do this soon.
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Post by Brandon R on Sept 12, 2005 18:21:41 GMT -5
Just make a thinner one. Or buy one. I had a hell of a time cutting mine in half in between the crankcase and cylinder head.
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Post by magicman on Nov 1, 2006 1:22:08 GMT -5
Just got a .005 copper gasket for my pocket bike from the hrs ebay store mentioned earlyer before now my piston head hits the cillender head how can i fix this and still have my engine squish?
It just touches ran for 30 secs before i turned it off cos i could hear the knocking noise.
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Post by Brandon R on Nov 1, 2006 16:03:45 GMT -5
Don't run it AT ALL. Replace the stock gasket.
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94
New Member
Loosey Goosey
Posts: 31
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Post by 94 on Apr 17, 2008 3:16:43 GMT -5
i run mine without the gasket and used JB Weld in the head of the cylinder to raise my starting compression to 200psi ;D but first i used jb to drop the volume of my crank intake transfer ports thus lowering the port size at the cylinder into bottom dead center with the pistons timing and increasing velocity pressure with a smaller crank volume in the shorter intake window. Remember 14.7:1 air to fuel, we are now ripping all those fuel droplets open. This speed expansion improved mixture gives the ability to lean out the mixture with a super low idle (33cc with large bore carb at lowest air flow screw setting) and still maintain revs due to lower exhaust gas temperature(lower exhaust pressure caused by refrigeration as the cylinder moves down from the explosion) caused by a more compactly mixed with oxygen super quick tiny explosion and higher fuel velocity through the crank(vapor explodes: liquid steams and burns). i used gravity to fill the crank and cylinder ports as though they were 4 cornered pools. be ready with clean rags when using jb weld. A dremel tool is not necessary. READ YOUR SPARK PLUG AND CARRY THE TOOL WHEN YOU RIDE. use 93 octane 40:1 and 32:1 if your engine wont rev due to pre diesel type compression ignition. Remember cylinder temp : you quench your pistons heat with fuel. efficient
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Post by Brandon R on Apr 18, 2008 22:27:34 GMT -5
What you just said makes no sense. At all.
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Post by TheNoisePolluter on May 9, 2008 21:26:01 GMT -5
I kind of understand it, but sounds TOO complicated!
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94
New Member
Loosey Goosey
Posts: 31
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Post by 94 on Jun 5, 2008 19:22:35 GMT -5
You are forming uniform surface area ratios for your carburetor's port surface area and tube surface area going under the piston and then again from your piston timed crank case ports into the cylinder. Essentially you are achieving a higher velocity into the crank case from the air filter to the crank case vacuum so the fuel is accelerated from liquid droplets into lighter vapors thus improving octane as you must lean out the fuel mixture due to increased intake speed. Since you have more vapors in the crank you can add less fuel to the cylinder due to high fuel content and pressure increase in the bottom end due to the cc's the JB Weld occupies.
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Post by Brandon R on Jun 6, 2008 22:03:41 GMT -5
Yea, What you did didn't do what you say it did. You can only accelerate the fuel mix by a high vacuum in the crankcase, or forced induction. Not by an engine squish. Oh, and 200 PSI of compression in your cylinder, you couldn't pull the recoil.
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94
New Member
Loosey Goosey
Posts: 31
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Post by 94 on Aug 29, 2009 0:33:03 GMT -5
When put it in the head JB Weld will burn up in a minute so the only way to lower size of combustion chamber is with a different spark plug that occupies more cc volume without causing a hot spot on the piston by being too close when the piston is at the top of its stroke or contacting the piston by being outside of the head. Also do not add to top of cylinder piston port because it is also too hot for the JB Weld to remain stable and will cause it discolor and burn. Only add to cylinder at the bottom of piston ports to make a smooth transfer from crank case ports.
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Post by TheNoisePolluter on Aug 30, 2009 20:24:27 GMT -5
The best thing you can do on a Keyang 33cc is get a billet head kit for the 36mm Go-Ped engines and take a hack saw and cut off the top of the cylinder, then go to a machine shop and have them cut the top of the cylinder to accept the 36mm go-ped dome and head shell, then have them make a billet adapter ring, that can bolt your Keyang cylinder down and then have the right bolt pattern to adapt the billet head shell on. I haven't done this yet, but if I re-build my Keyang, I would try that myself, also you can strip your motor down and use "Alumaloy" sodering rods and torch it up then fill the backside in of the transfers and then you full bore out your transfer ports without going through the crank case. I did this to a pocket bike 52cc crank case, just to give you can idea. www.gopednation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=274345www.gopednation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280296
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